China's Great Wall is an ancient marvel stretching over 21,000 kilometers, with roots reaching back more than 2,500 years to the Spring and Autumn Period (around 770 BCE to 476 BCE). Its construction spanned multiple dynasties, each seeking dominance, until work halted in the 17th century.
This massive network snakes through 15 provinces, 97 prefectures, and 404 counties. While some parts are major tourist draws, others lie in decay or obscurity, a testament to the wall's enormous scale and varying states of preservation.
Among its most notable sections is Yongtai Turtle City, a fortress completed in 1608 during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644). Situated in Sitan Township of Jingtai County in north-central Gansu province, this well-preserved walled city once housed 2,000 infantrymen and 500 cavalry units as a part of the Great Wall’s Yellow River Defense Line. Its oval shape, with gates resembling a head, flippers, and tail, earned it the nickname "Turtle City."
Visitors to Jingtai County can reach this ancient city with a 30-minute taxi ride. Local culinary delights include five Buddha tofu and Jingtai cold mixed noodles, both spicy vegetarian dishes. Lanzhou, the capital of Gansu province, offers international airport and high-speed train links, with Yongtai Turtle City about a 2.5-hour drive (195 kilometers) from downtown Lanzhou.
Near Beijing, the Mutianyu and Jiankou sections form a connected 25-kilometer stretch known as the "Stone Dragon." These parts are classic examples of Ming Dynasty Great Wall architecture. Mutianyu, restored in the 1980s, is a scenic tourist spot, accessible by cable car. To its west, Jiankou is an untouched "wild wall, " though hiking there has been discouraged by local authorities since 2020 due to safety issues.
Both Mutianyu and Jiankou are less than a 90-minute drive from downtown Beijing without traffic. Accommodations include The Barracks, a wall-side courtyard home, and The Brickyard near Mutianyu. Autumn foliage and spring cherry blossoms provide vibrant scenery, while winter offers nearby skiing and skating. Foreign tourists have been able to rent cars in China since September 2019, or they can opt for private transport; public transport to Jiankou's Xizhazi village can take up to five hours.
In Shanxi province, Bataizi village lies within the Motianling section of the Great Wall. It features the remnants of a Gothic church, built in 1876 by a German missionary, with only its bell tower still standing after numerous repairs over nearly 150 years. The juxtaposition of the church ruins against the rammed-earth Great Wall creates a unique historical site. Visitors can also meet Father Pan at the village’s new church.
Bataizi is 80 kilometers west of Datong, one of Shanxi’s largest cities, and 22 kilometers from Zuoyun County. Datong is accessible by plane or high-speed train, with a taxi to Bataizi costing about 300 yuan (approximately $43). Nearby attractions include the Yungang Grottoes, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and the Hengshan Hanging Temple. Late summer offers lush green hills contrasting with the wall.
Further north, Laoniuwan, also known as the Old Ox Bend Great Wall, is where the Great Wall meets the Yellow River. The Laoniuwan Fortress was built in 1467, followed by the prominent Wanghe Tower (river-watching tower) in 1544. This village, situated in Pianguan County of Xinzhou city, Shanxi province, is directly across the river from Inner Mongolia.
