Geopolitical strains are rising for the Sámi community in the northern regions of Norway's Finnmark, amid increasing international tensions. Traditionally spanning the areas of Norway, Sweden, Finland, and Russia, the Sámi have cultivated longstanding cross-border ties, now complicated by heightened security due to regional conflicts, most notably the war in Ukraine.
Historical fluidity at the Norway-Russia border, once a normality for the Sámi, has transformed into a zone of strict security. Positioned opposite the Kola Peninsula, where Russian military presence dominates, this part of NATO's defense line has seen increased oversight. This shift complicates age-old practices such as reindeer herding and hunting, introducing new bureaucratic hurdles like permits.
Nils Boine, who resides in the border town of Kirkenes, reminisces about the freedom once enjoyed with cross-border visits. “We used to go shopping in Russia, and go there for weekends, ” he shares. The situation has drastically changed post-Russia’s February 2022 invasion of Ukraine, halting such travel. Incidents like the arrest of a local Kirkenes businessman in Russia, allegedly over illegal possession of ammunition, have intensified locals' concerns about border crossings.
The tourism sector is also reeling from these developments. Norwegian tourism statistics show a steep decline in Russian visitors, plummeting from 250,000 in 2019 to 52,000 last year. Boine's family continues to sustain their tourism enterprise, focusing on clients mainly from Asia and Finland, unlike other businesses that have shuttered due to the dearth of Russian tourists.
German expatriate Henrik Hoffmann co-founded Kirkenes Tours and elaborates on the border challenges they face. He points out that the border, defined only by markers and clearings in the forest, is prone to accidental crossings by tourists. Hoffmann’s tours involve educating visitors about the border's intricacies and the legal repercussions, such as fines imposed on Swedish tourists for tossing stones over the border, reportedly 8,000 Norwegian kroner ($830) each.
Security in the region is palpably present with surveillance towers and cameras. Norwegian military patrols are now a familiar sight, and issues such as GPS interference—both jamming and spoofing—affect aircraft and reindeer herders who traditionally rely on GPS technology. Many herders, Hoffmann notes, are now opting for GSM trackers, which depend on cell networks, due to these interruptions.
Adding to their woes, the Sámi face increased threats from wildlife. The brown bear population in Finnmark continues to grow, with bears moving freely between both nations, endangering reindeer herds and livestock.
Despite the multitude of challenges, the Sámi remain steadfast in preserving their heritage. The annual tradition of calf marking, which now integrates modern tools like drones alongside traditional earmarks and snowmobiles, underscores their cultural resilience. However, sustaining these traditions is becoming harder as external pressures mount.
